How to iron your dress shirt in four quick steps

How to Iron Your Shirt in Four Quick Steps

1. Fit your shirt, back side facing up, over the rectangular end of your board (not the pointy end). Moisten the shirt with a water-filled spray bottle if it's not damp.

2. Finish ironing the back and flip the shirt over to the front. Pull the shirt down so the shoulder seam lies flat on the board and iron out the wrinkles. Repeat on the other shoulder.

3. Take the shirt off the board, flip the collar up, and lay it down so the back of the collar faces up. Spray and iron. Then fold a crease in the collar and iron it in.

4. Lay a sleeve lengthwise on the board and, pulling it taut from the cuff with one hand, iron it with the other. Keep it rotating so you don't iron a crease into it—your sleeve shouldn't look 2-D. Then open the cuff and lay it flat so the inside faces up. Iron. Repeat with the other cuff.

guayaberas... Marcecouture Florida. A story of a great tailor.

Last week I met a very professional made to measure - one of the most popular maker of Guayaberas established in 1969 - Mariano, professionally Marce (congratulations Mariano ! www.marcecouture.com) - based in Florida. I was curios to know the story behind this popular Americo-Latin shirt - let's think that to make just one shirt it takes at least 8 hours of strong job.

a brief story from Wikipedia.

Two guayaberas seen from the back, showing the alforza pleats and the Western-style yoke.

The guayabera /ɡwaɪ.əˈbɛrə/ is a men's shirt popular in Mexico, Central America, theCaribbean, Southeast Asia, and throughout Africa. It is also known as a "Mexican Wedding Shirt."^[1][2]

Contents

  [hide] 

• 1 History
• 2 Design
• 3 Political significance
• 4 Popularity in the United States
• 5 Similar shirts
• 6 References
• 7 External links

History[edit]

The origin of the garment is Creole, a mixture of Native American and Spanish wear developed in late 1800s. Various claims for the distinctive style have been made in several Latin America countries as well as the Philippines.^[3][4]

A version of the shirt's origins claims that Mexicans either originated it in Veracruz state or the Yucatán Peninsula. One theory holds that it was during the era of trade routes through the Caribbean that the Mexican shirts got to Cuba, and were taken to the Philippines by the Spaniards, where the evolution of the intricate embroidery started. Alternatively, others speculate that the shirt, which has documented origins in the Philippines prior to the arrival of the Spanish, made its way to Cuba through Mexico via the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade. The origin of the Guayabera shirt remains a mystery, and a similar prototypical shirt has existed since the 18th century, probably imported from Spain.^[3]

Guayabera may come from a Cuban legend that tells of a poor countryside seamstress sewing large patch-pockets onto her husband's shirts for carrying guava (guayabas) from the field.^[3][5] Guayabera may also have originated from the word yayabero, the singular nickname for those who lived near the Yayabo River in Cuba.^[3][6]

Though commonly called guayabera, in Yucatán, Mexico, it is also known as camisa de Yucatán. In 2010, Cuba declared the guayabera shirt to be its "official formal dress garment".^[7]

Design[edit]

The guayabera shirt is distinguished by several details: either two or four patch pockets and two vertical rows of alforzas (fine, tiny pleats, usually 10, sewn closely together) running along the front and back of the shirt. The pockets are separately detailed with identical, properly aligned alforzas.^[5]

The top of each pocket is usually adorned with a matching shirt button, as are the bottoms of the alforza pleats. Vertical rows of adjusting buttons are often seen, one on each side, at the bottom hem. While most versions of the design have no placket covering the buttons, a few newer designs do.

The bottom of many shirts has slits on either side, and these include adjusting buttons. The bottom has a straight hem, thus it is not tucked into the trousers.^[8]

Though traditionally worn in white and pastels, guayaberas are now available in many solid (and loud) colors. Black guayaberas, embroidered with colorful flowers and festooned with French cuffs, have for many decades been extremely popular in Mexico. In Mexico, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and Cuba, guayaberas are part of the traditional wear for men, and may be considered formalwear in some situations.^[9]

In Zimbabwe, the short sleeve version is worn for special occasions.^[10] The shirt was brought to Africa by Cuban teachers who once lived there. Today, it has replaced the safari suit for special occasions. White shirts are worn with black dress pants to weddings, and black shirts are worn to funerals.

The guayabera is worn as office and loose formal wear all over the world. In Zimbabwe and Britain the guayabera is called a Safari shirt. In Jamaica it is known as a bush jacket; in the United States, Trinidad and Guyana, a type of guayabera (similar to a safari shirt) is sometimes called a shirt-jac; in the Dominican Republic it is known as chacabana.

The shirt-jac (also known as a "jac" for short, or a "summer jac") has become a popular clergy shirt in the last thirty years. These shirts are simpler than a guayabera, avoiding the design details such as pleats. Many clerics purchase fine guayabera shirts and have the collars re-tailored into clergy collars.

Political significance[edit]

Guayaberas have been worn extensively by a number of Latin American political leaders, including Cesar Chavez, Carlos Prío Socarrás, and Fidel Castro. This is often interpreted as a sign of the wearer's affiliation with populist political positions.^[11] American presidents, including Ronald Reagan and George Bush Sr., have also worn the shirts when visiting the Cuban community in Miami.^[12]

Popularity in the United States[edit]

The guayabera rose to popularity in the United States in the 1970s when a Cuban exile named Ramón Puig (nicknamed "El Rey de Las Guayaberas", or "The King of the Guayaberas") brought the design with him. Designing and manufacturing them on Calle Ocho(Eighth Street, the heart of the Cuban community in Miami), the shirts became a hit in the Cuban community and the Miami area in general.^[13]

In the distant past, while guayaberas were typically associated with older men, they were worn by all ages. When retro clothing styles began resurging in recent years, the American consumer base shifted to a significantly younger audience.^[8]

Guayaberas are also worn at beach and destination weddings. Many in the United States enjoy guayaberas due to their comfortable and elegant features. Popular fabrics include 100% linen and 100% cotton.^[14]

In some countries and in several areas of Florida, the guayabera is often an acceptable form of office wear due to the hot weather.

The guayabera shirt is a long-standing symbol of solidarity amongst Hispanics living in America. On September 24, 2010 a powerful statement (about the guayabera as a Hispanic laborer's "uniform") was made by United Farm Workers President Arturo Rodriguez. Appearing as a primary speaker at a U.S. Congressional Subcommittee hearing on Immigration, Citizenship and Border Security, President Rodriguez wore a finely tailored guayabera.^[15]

Guayaberas were worn by over 20 lieutenant governors attending a National Lieutenant Governors Association meeting in Puerto Rico in 2011.

Similar shirts[edit]

British and Americans have been wearing versions of the guayabera for many generations. Known as "safari shirt" in Britain and"camp" (or "jac") shirt in America, their popularity first became quite notable in the 1930s. As in the Caribbean countries, Americans found the shirt to be acceptable office/business wear during extremely hot weather. Previously, Americans had only worn such shirts during their leisure time. In the UK (especially the colonies) and America, a plain form of safari shirt also became popular.

The real "safari shirt" is usually made of stronger material (less light weight), and has gussets in the back to provide more flexibility. This shirt has upper pockets. The safari shirt is confused herein with a safari jacket/bush jacket which is a single layer, long sleeved and long square tailed affair often made iconic by film directors and seen in photos of Ernest Hemingway. The jacket has lower open pockets and is worn open (not buttoned); it sometimes serves as a photographer's jacket. Both shirt and jacket signature color is tan.

Clergy shirts, as a variant of the British safari, have been worn for many decades and are common.^[16]

One of the Philippines' national costumes for men, the Barong shirt has some features which are similar to the guayabera. However, the Barong Tagalog is a much more formal piece of clothing. It lacks pleats or pockets, and is marked by intricate, hand-sewn embroidery in a variety of forms, including geometric or floral patterns. It is not made of linen, but rather of hand-woven, fine, translucent pina or jusi fiber.^[3]

In the Samoan islands the shirt style has been introduced into the masculine formal attire known as the "safari set". American Samoa's version of the shirt often includes tightly-sewn vertical pleats and two or four buttoned pockets.

what a 2ply yarn is ?

In the textile arts, plying is a process used to create a strong, balanced yarn. It is done by taking two or more strands of yarn that each have a twist to them and putting them together. The strands are twisted together, in the direction opposite that in which they were spun. When just the right amount of twist is added, this creates a balanced yarn, which is a yarn with no tendency to twist upon itself. Almost all store bought yarns are balanced, plied yarns.
A two-ply is thus a yarn plied from two strands, a six-ply is one from six strands, and so on. Most commercial yarns are more than a two ply. Embroidery floss is generally a six ply yarn, for example.
The creation of two-ply yarn requires two separate spools of singles and either a lazy kate or something to hold the spools in place. On a wheel, two-ply is created by taking two spools of singles, placing them on a lazy kate, tying the ends together onto the spool attached to the wheel, and spinning the wheel in the opposite direction that the singles were spun in while also feeding it onto the spool on the wheel. On a drop spindle, two-ply is created by placing the spools on a lazy kate, tying the ends together onto the drop spindle, holding equal lengths of singles together and dropping the spindle. The weight of the drop spindle combined with the twist in the singles, causes the drop spindle to turn in the opposite direction that the singles were twisted in until the two singles are plied together.

Contents

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• 1 Plying handspun yarns
  • 1.1 Regular plying
  • 1.2 Navajo plying
• 2 Machined yarns
• 3 Novelty yarns

Plying handspun yarns[edit source | editbeta]

Making a three ply yarn using bobbins on a lazy kate

When hand-spinning, there are two common ways to ply a balanced yarn: regular and Navajo.
When spinning fleece into yarn, you must first scour the fleece, remove the vegetable matter, card or comb it, and then spin it into singles. These singles are then used to create the finished yarn in a process known as plying. The purpose of plying singles is to strengthen them so that they do not break while knitting or crocheting them.
Most spinners (who use spinning wheels) ply from bobbins. This is easier than plying from balls because there is less chance for the yarn to become tangled and knotted if it is simply unwound from the bobbins. So that the bobbins can unwind freely, they are put in a device called a Lazy Kate, or sometimes simply kate. The simplest lazy kate consists of wooden bars with a metal rod running between them. Most hold between three and four bobbins. The bobbin sits on the metal rod. Other lazy kates are built with devices that create an adjustable amount of tension, so that if the yarn is jerked, a whole bunch of yarn is not wound off, then wound up again in the opposite direction. Some spinning wheels come with a built in lazy kate.

Regular plying[edit source | editbeta]

Diagram showing S and Z twist

Regular plying consists of taking 2 or more singles and twisting them together, the opposite way. This can be done on either a spinning wheel or a spindle. The most important thing to remember though is that the twist must go the opposite direction. If in spinning the single the wheel was spinning clockwise (which is called a "Z" twist, as on any given side the fibres appear to cross diagonally in the same direction as the diagonal of a "Z"), in order to ply it the wheel must spin counter-clockwise (an "S" twist). This is because otherwise you are not balancing the twist, just twisting it more. The concept is similar to when a heavily twisted piece of yarn is folded, and it twists up on itself. It is most common for singles to be spun with a "Z" twist, and then plied with an "S" twist.

How to hold the singles to keep them separate

When plying, the singles are kept separate, either with the fingers or with a tool. This tool can be anything from the top of a salt dispenser, and the singles threaded through the holes, or a specially carved piece of wood with holes in it. The singles are kept separate to ensure that they do not get tangled and so the tension can be controlled.

Navajo plying[edit source | editbeta]

Navajo plying (also known as chain plying) consists of making large loops, similar to crocheting. Only one single is necessary, and if the single is already dyed this technique allows it to be plied without ruining the colour scheme. First make a loop about 8 inches long through the loop on the end on the leader. (A leader is the string left on the bobbin, which the new yarn is spun from.) Start spinning all three strands together in the opposite direction than that they were spun in. When only 2 to 3 inches (76 mm) remain of the loop, pull a new loop of yarn through the loop, and continue spinning. The new loop should be around 7 inches (180 mm) long. Repeat this process until the yarn is all plied. This technique allows the spinner to try to match up thick and thin spots in the yarn, thus making for a smoother end product.

Machined yarns[edit source | editbeta]

Machines that ply yarn use the 'regular' method mentioned above. The main difference is that instead of humans, gears control the intake making sure that the strands all have the same tension and the same length. Other than that, the process for plying is exactly the same.

Novelty yarns[edit source | editbeta]

Many novelty yarns make use of special plying techniques to gain their special effects. By varying the tension in the strands, or the relative sizes of the strands, or many other factors different effects can be achieved. For example, when a soft, thick strand is plied against a tightly twisted thin strand, the resulting yarn spirals. Another example is bouclé, which is a yarn where one strand is held loosely and allowed to make loops on the other yarn while plying.

DID YOU KNOW ?

Giza 45

Egyptian cotton has been renowned for centuries for its preciousness. The particular climactic conditions and the fertility of the earth alongside the river Nile, especially at its delta allow the cultivation of the best cotton in the world, thanks to the unique ingredients offered by nature.

The inexhaustible supply of water and fertile silt which irrigates the land caused the Greek author Herodotus to write that “Egypt is a gift of the Nile”. The annual rainfall of around 190mm mostly falls between October and April and is particularly concentrated in a few days of abundant rain. The humidity of the air, owing to the frequent breezes coming from the North is also rather high. Any extremes of temperature are also low, owing to the mildness of the winds which blow down from the Mediterranean Sea. The cotton is planted at the End of March when the temperature is quite mild. This mildness allows the lower branches of the plant to grow, whilst the bolls that develop in the shade are not scorched by the direct heat of the sun. In July and August, during the formation of the cotton fibre, the climate is very stable and favourable to the production of regular and uniform fibres, which are then harvested in September.

Giza 45 is “The Queen” of all types of Egyptian cotton. It was first cultivated in 1820 by Mohammed Ali Pascia , the founder of modern Egypt and the symbol of the country’s revival after the invasion of Naploeon. Ali Paschia imported Brazilian and West Indian Sea Island Cotton seeds; being enthusiastic for the wonderful foreign fabrics which were being produced from these raw materials. The combination of the best seeds in the world, together with the exceptional environment created the ideal cultivation conditions for the most precious cotton in the world.

The Giza 45 plants are cultivated in a very small area to the East of the Nile delta, and they represent only 0.4% of the total annual Egyptian cotton production. The cotton is picked by hand in five separate phases which ensures that only the bolls with the correct maturity are selected. Moreover the careful cultivation and the manual harvesting avoids the use of defoliants and chemical products which are normally associated with mechanical harvesting.

The fibres of the Giza 45 cotton production have an extraordinary staple length that easily surpasses 36mm, and a unique uniformity index of 88.5%. Furthermore what makes this cotton exceptional amongst all extra-long staple cottons is the fineness of its fibres on average 2.95 microns (see table 1). To obtain the finest yarn counts like 2/200s, 2/240s, and 2/300s, spinners are even more selective and select those with fineness to 2.80 microns. Despite its fineness, the strength of the Giza 45 fibre remains high, about 44.3gms/tex which is similar to that of less fine cottons like Giza 88. This relationship of fibre and strength makes it possible to spin the best yarns in the world. Because of the fineness of the staple yarn of Giza 45 it is possible to insert a greater number of elementary fibres whose adjacent connection gives greater strength.

In table 2 you will observe a comparison of 2/140s yarn count spun from different cotton fibres. Strength, cleanness and regularity are the uniquely excellent characteristics of Giza 45 Cotton. This exceptional cotton yarn gives rise to fine but resilient shirting fabrics with an extraordinary soft and silky handle, which make the best shirts in the whole world. . .

what's you favourit fabric ?

thanks to great website  (www.http://www.office-dress-shirts.com) i found interesting information related to shirting. 

The Different Types of Shirt Fabrics

Shirt fabrics is the main contributor to the quality of the dress shirt. A shirt rests directly on your skin for more than 8 hours every day, so it is important to choose the best possible quality.

Shirt fabrics, or "shirtings" as they are called by tailors, are of various nature and variously appropriate. Cotton is by far the most common fabric for dress shirts, and most fabric names refer to a particular method of weaving it. The numbers sometimes listed with fabrics denote the thickness of the yarn from which the fabric is made; higher numbers mean thinner yarn, and thence finer cloth and higher prices.

Oxford

Oxford cloth, the coarsest shirting, is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A more casual fabric, its most natural form is the button-down collar. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts, only the threads running in one direction are dyed, while the others are left white. This gives the fabric its characteristic textured appearance. Pinpoint Oxford is woven likewise, but of finer yarn, and is thus smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still, and can stand proudly beside a fine wool suit and expensive tie.
Being a heavier fabric, Oxfords are more suitable in winter climates.
Examples of Oxford cloth
 Blue Oxford cloth
 Another close up shot of Oxford fabrics. Note the pin points on the cloth, it makes it rougher and hence less formal.
 Another example of the rough Oxford cloth
 Pink Oxford cloth for a change. This piece also looks less rough

 Examples of Oxford cloth shirt made by Mastai Ferretti

 A typical looking shirt made from blue oxford shirting

Poplin

Poplin bears a smoother texture but similar weight, the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it.
It is soft and comfortable, and often used in more casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.
 Examples of Poplin shirting
 Another example of Poplin shirting

Twill

 Example of twill shirting

Cotton twill, a shimmery diagonal weave, makes for richly textured shirts without sacrificing formality. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch or so, giving the fabric even more depth.
When occasion or whim calls for a solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache.

Herringbone

Herringbone describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in shirt fabrics, under the family of twill shirtings. The pattern is called herringbone because it looks like the skeleton of a herring fish.
Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular clothes used for suits and outerwear.

 A beautiful herringbone shirt. Note the split yoke and perfectly aligned stripes
 Herringbone shirt folded

Broadcloth

Finer still is broadcloth, of fine yarn woven so tightly that it gleams. This is the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away.
Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.
 Broadcloth Shirt

 Blue broadcloth shirting up close
 Another example of broadcloth shirt, with contrast collars

 Blue and white striped broadcloth shirting

End on End

End-on-end cotton is made by weaving two lengthwise yarns together—typically alternating dyed and undyed (or white) ends.
The idea is to give shirt fabrics a richer texture than you'd get from a solid colour.
End-on-end cotton is used in just about anything made out of woven fabric, from boxer shorts to dress shirts.
It skews to a bit of an older demographic.

End on end shirting

All About Cottons

All fine dress shirts should be made of cotton, and even then, not all cotton are of the same quality. Ignore labels and just run your finger over the shirt fabrics, the cotton should feel fine and soft to the touch. Colors are also more defined and brighter on high quality cotton as compared to synthetics. In fact, the best cotton, Sea Island Cotton, a brand name owned by cotton growers in the West Indies, feels similar to silk.

In general, the smoother the cloth, the more formal and higher quality the shirt. The smoothness of the cloth also depends highly on the yarn numbers. Yarn numbers range from 30s found in cheap department stores to the common 80s used by better ready to wear makers to the super 200s. However, thin yarns are but one indicator of quality.
Long staple 140s woven on slow looms that neither stretch nor break the fibres are a better value than some of the 170s rushed to market off high speed looms.


The best cottons are grown in Egypt and the Caribbean and woven in Switzerland and Italy. The finer the cotton, the dressier the shirt. And the longer the fibre, the finer the cotton, because there are fewer knots binding the fibres together. The longest cotton fibres are about 1.5 - 2 inches.


You will often see dress shirt fabrics described numerically as 50's, 80's, 100's, 120s, 140s, 160s, etc. This number refers to the thickness of the yarn: the lower the number, the thicker the yarn; the higher the number, the finer the yarn.

2-Ply Cotton

All the best shirt fabrics are two by two, or two ply. Two ply cotton is made of two lengths of yarn intertwined looks superior to single ply cotton because its density and thickness adds lushness.
120's 140's 160's two-ply cottons are the most luxurious (and expensive) dress shirt fabrics. Individual yarns are even thinner, the weave even tighter and the thread count per inch even greater. The fabric is silky smooth and it holds color and pattern extremely well. Although the price of a higher thread count dress shirt is usually twice that of its 80's counterpart, many men make that extra investment because they enjoy the softness and luster, as well as the finer tailoring details that typically are offered in this luxury shirt.
100's two-ply broadcloth is a luxury fabric with a silky feel. It is very durable due to its two-ply thread (two individual threads are twisted together) and close weave.
80's pinpoint oxford is another excellent two-ply fabric. It is also extremely durable, but has more texture (a weightier look) than a broadcloth fabric.
Royal Oxford cloth possesses the durability of pinpoint oxford with more texture (in colored Royal Oxford fabric, you can see a small amount of white in the weave).
50's Egyptian Cotton, woven of single-ply thread, is a lightweight and durable cotton fabric at a great value.

Blended Fabrics

Besides pure cotton, all the fabrics above can be found in cotton/polyester blends.
These are less expensive, and while they do not look as rich or feel as smooth, they can often be worn without ironing. No-iron 100% cotton shirts offer the rich look of natural fiber with the ease of synthetics, but the good ones are very expensive and the cheap ones irritate the skin.
Synthetics fibers get itchy and uncomfortable in extreme heat, i.e. over 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Ironing is really not that much work, and it is the surest way to look and feel good in shirts which are affordable enough that you can stock your closet with a diverse collection of them.

How to wash linen ?

Linen Stain Removal Chart

Always follow CARE labels. If you are going to launder, follow these instructions for removing stains. BALLPOINT INK Hold stain against towel, spray closely from behind with aerosol hair spray. Ink should transfer to towel BEVERAGES Soak in cool water. Re-wash with stain remover. Launder using chlorine bleach (if safe for fabric) or oxygen bleach. BLOOD Immediately rinse with cool water. For dried stains, soak in warm water with a product containing enzymes. Launder. CANDLE WAX Scrape off as much as possible with dull side of knife, then iron between absorbent paper, changing paper until wax is absorbed. CHOCOLATE Pre-wash with product containing enzymes in warm water or treat with pre-wash stain remover. Launder. COLLAR, CUFF SOIL Pre-wash with stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of granular detergent and water. Launder. COSMETICS Pre-wash with stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of granular detergent and water or rub with bar of soap. Launder. DAIRY PRODUCTS Soak in a product containing enzymes for at least 30 minutes (hours for aged stains). Launder. DEODORANTS ANTI-PERSPIRANTS Pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent. Launder. For heavy stains pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes. Launder using an oxygen bleach. EGG Soak in product containing enzymes. Launder. FRUIT JUICE Rinse with cool water. GRASS Soak in product containing enzymes. If stains persist, launder using a chlorine bleach (if safe for fabric) or oxygen bleach. GREASE SPOTS, OIL Pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover or liquid laundry detergent. For heavy stains, place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning agent to back of stain. Replace paper towels under stain frequently. Let dry, rinse and launder using hottest water safe for fabric. INK Use ink eradicator on undyed, untreated linen. LEMON, LIME JUICE, VINEGAR Rinse immediately with cool water. LIPSTICK On pure linen, rub with a little salad oil to dissolve lipstick, then launder to remove oil. MEAT JUICE Rinse with cool, never hot, water. MILDEW Badly mildewed fabrics may be beyond repair. Launder stained item using chlorine bleach, (if safe for fabric). Or soak in oxygen bleach and hot water. Then launder. PERSPIRATION Use pre-wash stain remover or rub with bar of soap. If color of fabric has changed, apply ammonia to fresh stains, white vinegar to old stains and rinse. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. RED WINE Cover with salt if stain is fresh, then rinse with cool water. If stain has dried, try club soda. SCORCH Treat same as for mildew (listed above). TAR Scrape residue from fabric. Place stain face down on paper towels. Sponge with cleaning fluid. Replace towels frequently. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric. TOMATO Rinse with cool water. WHITE WINE Use club soda.

why linen ?

Linen is a very popular fabric that never goes out of style. With the proper care, it can be a timelessly stylish wardrobe staple.

Linen is a very popular, versatile fabric that never goes out of style. This natural fabric is known for its comfort. It allows the body to breathe, and so linen is especially popular in warm climates.
With the proper care, linen can be a timelessly stylish wardrobe staple.

About Linen

Linen is a natural fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant.

Linen has been used since ancient times. Ancient Egyptians wrapped their mummies in linen bandages. The controversial Shroud of Turin, believed by some to be the burial cloth of Jesus Christ, is made of linen.

Linen is still very popular throughout the world today for household use, such as tablecloths, napkins, and curtains, as well as for clothing.

Linen is a favorite fabric of some top designers. Also popular are blended fabrics made from linen combined with other materials, such as cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic fibers.

China is a leading exporter of linen fabrics; however, linen is made and sold throughout the world.

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Wearing Linen

Linen is a versatile fabric. From the business suit to the little black evening dress to casual resort wear, linen is at home in virtually any setting. You can dress it up or dress it down with some simple accessories. And linen never, ever goes out of style.

Pair up your linen pants with a cashmere sweater in the fall, a silk blouse in the spring, or a cotton tee in summer. A scarf or pendant can complete the look, which can go from office to evening effortlessly.

Some people avoid linen clothing because of its tendency to wrinkle very easily when worn. For this reason, linen clothing should be packed with care when traveling.

These days, some linen clothing manufacturers use a special finish on the linen that reduces wrinkling. Some linen blends are also less prone to wrinkling.


Caring for Your Linen Clothing

While some people prefer to have their linen clothing professionally dry cleaned, some linen clothing can be washed at home by hand or by machine. For best results, follow the manufacturer's instructions for clothing care.

An advantage to having your linen clothing professionally dry cleaned is that the cleaner will professionally press your clothing as well. If you wash your linen clothing at home, use a hot iron to press the wrinkles out of the fabric. Iron the linen on the wrong side of the fabric or through a cotton handkerchief to protect the fabric's finish.

Alternatively, you can take your hand- or machine-washed linen clothing to your dry cleaner to be pressed. "Press only" service costs significantly less than full clean-and-press service.

Do not use a steamer to remove wrinkles from your linen clothing.


Traveling with Linen

Because of its tendency to wrinkle, you should pack your linen clothing with care when traveling.

Stuff the sleeves of your linen jackets and the legs of your linen pants with tissue paper, and cover each piece of clothing with a plastic dry cleaner bag. Pack your linen clothing at the last minute, folding it as little as possible.

When you arrive at your destination, unpack and hang your linen clothing as soon as possible. Use a travel iron to press out any wrinkles. Do not use a travel steamer to remove wrinkles.

Now go out there in your best linen clothes and show off your great sense of style

DAL SITO CAMICIA E CRAVATTA

La Camicia di Lino
un artico interessante da leggere.

Lo Stile Maschile — 07 July 2011

Il lino e’ considerato il miglior tessuto estivo in quanto ha un peso molto leggero e lascia respirare la pelle.

Tuttavia la leggerezza che è il suo punto di forza si trasforma anche in un punto debole. Proprio perchè a causa della leggerezza del tessuto si formano pieghe e si stroppiccia facilmente.

Le camicie a maniche lunghe esistono in due versioni, taglio classico e taglio casual.

Il taglio classico è identico a qualsiasi altra camicia del tipo.

Quelle a maniche corte tipo quelle di Brooks Brothers sono assolutamente solo per il tempo libero.

Una Camicia in lino casual normalmente ha un colletto morbido, da portare aperto.

La camicia in lino in taglio classico deve essere assolutamente della misura giusta, ne’ piu’ grande ne’ più piccola, in quanto, proprio per la facilita’ che ha di stropicciarsi vi darebbe un aspetto molto trasandato.

Ho notato quanto il lino piaccia molto ai giovani, che naturalmente utilizzano la camicia in questo tessuto in maniera più informale. A loro dedico la seconda parte del post

COME INDOSSARE UNA CAMICIA DI LINO (per i più giovani ma non solo…)

L’estate è decisamente il momento per indossare una camicia di lino.
La camicia di Lino può essere indossata in ogni luogo – dall’ufficio al ristorante, dalla spiaggia all’uscita serale.
Come sempre vediamo come:
Se non lavorate in uffici che richiedono abiti formali, ma e’ ammesso un casual business si puo’ indossare con un paio di jeans al venerdì. Preferitela in tinta unita e in colori pastello, ed utilizzate colori più vivaci o le righine in occasioni e luoghi più casual. Con la giacca o anche senza.
Indossate una camicia di lino quando uscite alla sera. Sia al ristorante che al discoclub, avrete un look fresco e anche di stile. Abbinatela ad un paio di pantaloni “smart casual” e. se volete anche ad un blazer.

Un consiglio: per i momenti di tempo libero, arrotolate le maniche, vi darà un look molto piu’ rilassato.
Il più divertente ed estivo modo di indossare una camicia di lino è di abbinarla ad un paio di pantaloni di lino e magari un bel mocassino estivo Todd’s. Un look fresco, casual, con un pizzico di stile.
Un consiglio: abbinate tinte diverse di lino. Per esempio camicia bianca di lino con pantaloni di lino sabbia.
Evitate di vestirvi dello stesso colore dalla testa ai piedi perche’ sembrereste in pigiama.

La terza casa di Maria

LA CASA DEI DUBBI E DEI SOGNI

Mt 1, 18-25 : L'annuncio a Giuseppe

Ecco come avvenne la nascita di Gesù Cristo:

 

Sua madre Maria, essendo promessa sposa di Giuseppe, prima che andassero a vivere insieme si trovò incinta per opera dello Spirito Santo.

 

Giuseppe suo sposo, che era giusto e non voleva accusarla pubblicamente, decise di ripudiarla in segreto.

 

Mentre però stava pensando a queste cose, ecco, gli apparve in sogno un angelo del Signore e gli disse:

«Giuseppe, figlio di Davide, non temere di prendere con te Maria, tua sposa, perché quel che è generato in lei viene dallo Spirito Santo. Ella darà alla luce un figlio e tu lo chiamerai Gesù: egli infatti salverà il suo popolo dai suoi peccati».

 

Tutto questo è avvenuto perché si compisse ciò che era stato detto dal Signore per mezzo del profeta:

“Ecco, la vergine concepirà e darà alla luce un figlio: a Lui sarà dato il nome di Emmanuele”,

che significa Dio con noi.

 

Quando si destò dal sonno, Giuseppe fece come gli aveva ordinato l'angelo del Signore e prese con sé la sua sposa,la quale, senza che egli la conoscesse, diede alla luce un figlio, che egli chiamò Gesù.

 

(Mt 1,18-25)

1. DUBBI e SOGNI che si alternano: dall'inizio della relazione al vivere quotidiano.

All'inizio dell'analisi della terza casa di Maria, preponderante è la figura di Giuseppe: uomo innamorato che antepone ai propri desideri la volontà di Dio riuscendo ad amare senza possedere; uomo di fede che non ha paura in quanto la paura è contraria alla fede, al matrimonio e alla paternità.

Nella nostra storia di coppia possiamo distinguere due diverse fasi: la fase iniziale nella quale hanno predominato i nostri sogni personali, le nostre aspettative sul futuro e dove forse ci si sentiva fautori del nostro destino. Un po' come Giuseppe, prima che l'Angelo gli spiegasse il progetto di Dio su Maria, noi eravamo concentrati sui nostri desideri e non ci si chiedeva quale fosse il disegno di Dio su di noi. Forse la giovane età e una limitata esperienza ci conducevano verso una visione razionale del nostro stare insieme: eravamo innamorati e concentrati unicamente sull'obiettivo di costruire una vita in comune. Non ci sfiorava il pensiero che Dio potesse in qualche modo centrare con la nostra storia. Credevamo, sì, e avevamo deciso di sposarci in Chiesa ma non eravamo in grado di capire che tutto ciò faceva parte di un progetto più grande.

La seconda fase è iniziata con il vivere quotidiano, quando a poco a poco è cambiato il nostro modo di stare insieme, forse perché abbiamo cominciato a vedere che non tutti i nostri progetti riuscivano a realizzarsi secondo la nostra volontà, costringendoci spesso a cambiare direzione e a riformulare il “piano di volo”. Questo ci ha portati a rivedere il nostro vivere comune e ci ha spinti a cercare uno strumento in grado di aiutarci a ricollocare la nostra vita all'interno del disegno di Dio.

Da qui nel 2001 la decisione di iniziare un percorso all'interno di un gruppo di giovani coppie.

Nonostante il decennale cammino di fede mai interrotto, ancora oggi spesso ci è difficile accettare un cambiamento non preventivato, affidandoci con serenità a Dio per portarne a compimento la volontà. Facciamo fatica a mettere da parte i nostri desideri per seguire la via tracciata per noi e ad andare incontro al mistero con fiducia senza calcoli e senza programmi.

Pensiamo però che valga la pena tentare di affrontare il mistero con l'abbandono che Giuseppe ci insegna nel passo di Vangelo analizzato, perché siamo convinti che non saremmo in grado da soli di affrontare l'imprevedibile che è insito nella vita stessa.

2. La PROVA : causa di caduta o occasione di rinascita.

Giuseppe dopo la decisione di prendere con sé Maria deve affrontare la prova di accogliere un bambino estraneo. E' nel momento della prova che svela se stesso e dimostra quanto grande siano la sua fede e il suo amore per Maria; diviene capace di dare senza prendere, di amare in perdita, di amare senza contare.

Nel contempo Maria dice il suo sì a Giuseppe, lascia la casa del padre e si affida al futuro sposo con fiducia e con la trepidazione di tutte le giovani spose.

Insieme, attraverso le prove quotidiane, divengono prima sposi e poi genitori, in un continuo scambio di luce, calore, sguardi. Il loro è un amore puro: Giuseppe ama Maria senza volerla possedere come sua e Maria ama il suo uomo con un cuore di carne in tenerezza e castità.

Di fronte ad una tale grandezza di amore e all'incredibile forza dimostrata da Giuseppe e Maria nell'affrontare e nell'accogliere l'imprevisto, ci sorgono spontanee alcune domande:

1. riusciamo a fare spazio nella nostra vita per accogliere l'elemento estraneo, l'imprevisto, l'evento non calcolato?
2. quanto è valsa la nostra fede nelle prove che fino ad oggi abbiamo affrontato?
3. Quanto siamo capaci di dare senza prendere e di amare senza possedere?

Personalmente ambedue facciamo fatica ad accogliere tutto ciò che è imprevisto e non calcolato. La nostra prima reazione nei confronti di un cambiamento non voluto o di un evento inaspettato è la chiusura, il tentativo di trovare da soli una soluzione che riconduca la situazione verso il nostro volere. Ci rendiamo conto però che talvolta la soluzione è semplicemente quella di accettare l'accaduto e di affidarci a Dio chiedendo la forza per dare compimento alla sua volontà. Le poche volte che siamo riusciti ad attuare ciò, abbiamo sentito dentro di noi la sensazione di leggerezza che si prova quando qualcun altro si prende carico delle tue preoccupazioni e divide con te la sofferenza.

Fino ad oggi si può dire che l'unica prova pesante che abbiamo vissuto è stata la scomparsa della mamma di Marco. In questa situazione soprattutto Marco è stato sostenuto dall'esempio di fede e coraggio trasmessogli dalla madre nella lunga malattia e negli ultimi istanti di vita.

Marco pensa che senza la fede questo distacco sarebbe stato più difficile e incomprensibile; con l'aiuto della preghiera invece è arrivato ad una serena accettazione del vuoto lasciato dalla figura materna ed è proprio nella preghiera che continua il dialogo con la madre e sente costantemente la sua presenza.

Per quanto riguarda la capacità di amare “in perdita” e di dare senza prendere, ci viene naturale tra di noi e con le persone alle quali vogliamo bene. Più difficile risulta applicare questo principio con persone che frequentiamo (es: colleghi, vicini di casa...) ma con le quali non c'è un rapporto di affetto. In questo caso il gesto di gratuità costa maggior fatica perché forse inconsciamente “si tiene il conto” di ciò che l'altro ha fatto per noi.

Anche con i figli c'è spesso la difficoltà di dare senza prendere … Paola e Luca sono due persone diverse da noi, con desideri propri che spesso non coincidono con i nostri: in tal caso il dare gratuitamente senza ricevere nulla in cambio è difficile soprattutto per Cristina che spesso si aspetta di raccogliere qualcosa a fronte del sacrificio fatto. Sono invece proprio i figli le prime persone con le quali sperimenti che amare non è possedere, che l'amore è libero, senza costrizioni, senza ricatti, senza condizioni, che l'amore ti mette a nudo di fronte all'altro, senza più maschere,senza più finzioni,facendo emergere i desideri più profondi del tuo cuore.

3. “FARE CASA” e “STARE CON”

Giuseppe e Maria, mentre affrontano i dubbi e la prova chiesta loro da Dio, costruiscono la loro casa insieme, “fanno casa” cioè generano futuro e realizzano così il sogno di Dio: che nessuno sia solo nella vita e che nessuna casa sia senza festa del cuore.

Maria nello “stare con” Giuseppe, nel dire il suo sì al promesso sposo, diviene creatrice di relazione e il centro di questa relazione non è l'io o il tu ma il noi.

Maria e Giuseppe imparano la vita, l'una dall'altro. Maria diventa se stessa, accolta e accogliente nella casa del falegname.

Nel corso dei nostri undici anni di matrimonio abbiamo sempre sentito di essere un “noi” e non due singole persone messe insieme. La nostra casa è stato il luogo in cui abbiamo costruito il nostro futuro e in cui non ci siamo mai sentiti soli: in ogni momento sappiamo di poter contare l'uno sull'altra.

Come nella casa di Giuseppe, anche nella nostra ci sentiamo liberi di esprimere gli affetti e tutta la dimensione emozionale, sicuri di essere accolti e compresi. Ci siamo scelti come compagni di vita e ci accorgiamo giorno dopo giorno che amare riamati è sufficiente a riempire la vita nostra, dei nostri figli e delle persone a noi vicine.

A Paola e Luca cerchiamo di far capire, soprattutto con l'esempio, che dallo stare con gli altri ( amici, compagni, cugini,..) deriva la vera gioia della vita perché i giorni difficili, inutili o vuoti possono cambiare aspetto nell'incontro con l'altro. Non è sempre facile, vista l'assenza di Marco, aprire casa nostra agli altri ma lo sforzo che facciamo viene ripagato dalla gioia che deriva da ogni incontro e dalla felicità che manifestano i nostri figli quando qualcuno viene a trovarci.

L'apertura agli altri la viviamo in primo luogo come coppia e poi come famiglia: che entra in casa nostra viene accolto da tutti noi e non solo da uno di noi.

Vorremmo che Paola e Luca imparassero che si può vivere o come affidati soltanto a se stessi o come affidati alla sollecitudine di Dio; che si può viversi come gettati via oppure nell'ospitalità di una casa affinché l'incontro con l'altro ti tocchi nel profondo e sia in grado di cambiarti la vita.

4. La vicinanza di Dio come annuncio, come luce alla fine del labirinto, come sorriso che illumina l'esistenza.

Secondo il Vangelo di Luca l'annunciazione è fatta a Maria; secondo il Vangelo di Matteo l'annunciazione è fatta a Giuseppe. In realtà l'annuncio è fatto alla coppia, la vocazione è rivolta allo sposo e alla sposa insieme, dentro il matrimonio.

Dio non ruba spazio alla famiglia e non divide la coppia, anzi, chiede il doppio sì degli sposi in quanto insieme sono immagine e somiglianza del Creatore.

Dio creò l'uomo a sua immagine;

a immagine di Dio lo creò;

maschio e femmina li creò.

Dio li benedisse e disse loro:

“Siate fecondi e moltiplicatevi” (Gen 1,27-28)

Dio è una presenza costante nella vita della coppia, dentro le cose, nel dramma, nel dialogo, nei dubbi, nella crisi … come promessa di una luce capace di irradiare la nostra esistenza e di un sorriso che ci accoglierà alla fine del labirinto della vita.

Ci piace l'idea di un Dio che ci pensa come coppia indivisibile: non un uomo e una donna, ma due insieme. Sentiamo la sua presenza tra noi soprattutto nei momenti di maggior comunione (preghiera e Santa Messa) e la sua benedizione ci si manifesta attraverso le persone che ci ha messo accanto per aiutarci o delle quali prenderci cura.

Il nostro personale augurio rivolto alla nostra coppia e alle coppie con le quali condividiamo il cammino è quello di sentirsi ospitati e affidati alle cure e alla sollecitudine di Dio … di viversi come accolti e ospitati nelle mani di un Padre, perché da solo l'uomo è portato persino a dubitare di se stesso.

Cristina e Marco, 08/01/2012