Tessere la vita
di Marco Ferrabue
domenica 3 novembre 2013
How to iron your dress shirt in four quick steps
guayaberas... Marcecouture Florida. A story of a great tailor.
Last week I met a very professional made to measure - one of the most popular maker of Guayaberas established in 1969 - Mariano, professionally Marce (congratulations Mariano ! www.marcecouture.com) - based in Florida. I was curios to know the story behind this popular Americo-Latin shirt - let's think that to make just one shirt it takes at least 8 hours of strong job.
Contents
History[edit]
The origin of the garment is Creole, a mixture of Native American and Spanish wear developed in late 1800s. Various claims for the distinctive style have been made in several Latin America countries as well as the Philippines.[3][4]
A version of the shirt's origins claims that Mexicans either originated it in Veracruz state or the Yucatán Peninsula. One theory holds that it was during the era of trade routes through the Caribbean that the Mexican shirts got to Cuba, and were taken to the Philippines by the Spaniards, where the evolution of the intricate embroidery started. Alternatively, others speculate that the shirt, which has documented origins in the Philippines prior to the arrival of the Spanish, made its way to Cuba through Mexico via the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade. The origin of the Guayabera shirt remains a mystery, and a similar prototypical shirt has existed since the 18th century, probably imported from Spain.[3]
Guayabera may come from a Cuban legend that tells of a poor countryside seamstress sewing large patch-pockets onto her husband's shirts for carrying guava (guayabas) from the field.[3][5] Guayabera may also have originated from the word yayabero, the singular nickname for those who lived near the Yayabo River in Cuba.[3][6]
Though commonly called guayabera, in Yucatán, Mexico, it is also known as camisa de Yucatán. In 2010, Cuba declared the guayabera shirt to be its "official formal dress garment".[7]
The origin of the garment is Creole, a mixture of Native American and Spanish wear developed in late 1800s. Various claims for the distinctive style have been made in several Latin America countries as well as the Philippines.[3][4]
A version of the shirt's origins claims that Mexicans either originated it in Veracruz state or the Yucatán Peninsula. One theory holds that it was during the era of trade routes through the Caribbean that the Mexican shirts got to Cuba, and were taken to the Philippines by the Spaniards, where the evolution of the intricate embroidery started. Alternatively, others speculate that the shirt, which has documented origins in the Philippines prior to the arrival of the Spanish, made its way to Cuba through Mexico via the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade. The origin of the Guayabera shirt remains a mystery, and a similar prototypical shirt has existed since the 18th century, probably imported from Spain.[3]
Guayabera may come from a Cuban legend that tells of a poor countryside seamstress sewing large patch-pockets onto her husband's shirts for carrying guava (guayabas) from the field.[3][5] Guayabera may also have originated from the word yayabero, the singular nickname for those who lived near the Yayabo River in Cuba.[3][6]
Though commonly called guayabera, in Yucatán, Mexico, it is also known as camisa de Yucatán. In 2010, Cuba declared the guayabera shirt to be its "official formal dress garment".[7]
Design[edit]
The guayabera shirt is distinguished by several details: either two or four patch pockets and two vertical rows of alforzas (fine, tiny pleats, usually 10, sewn closely together) running along the front and back of the shirt. The pockets are separately detailed with identical, properly aligned alforzas.[5]
The top of each pocket is usually adorned with a matching shirt button, as are the bottoms of the alforza pleats. Vertical rows of adjusting buttons are often seen, one on each side, at the bottom hem. While most versions of the design have no placket covering the buttons, a few newer designs do.
The bottom of many shirts has slits on either side, and these include adjusting buttons. The bottom has a straight hem, thus it is not tucked into the trousers.[8]
Though traditionally worn in white and pastels, guayaberas are now available in many solid (and loud) colors. Black guayaberas, embroidered with colorful flowers and festooned with French cuffs, have for many decades been extremely popular in Mexico. In Mexico, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and Cuba, guayaberas are part of the traditional wear for men, and may be considered formalwear in some situations.[9]
In Zimbabwe, the short sleeve version is worn for special occasions.[10] The shirt was brought to Africa by Cuban teachers who once lived there. Today, it has replaced the safari suit for special occasions. White shirts are worn with black dress pants to weddings, and black shirts are worn to funerals.
The guayabera is worn as office and loose formal wear all over the world. In Zimbabwe and Britain the guayabera is called a Safari shirt. In Jamaica it is known as a bush jacket; in the United States, Trinidad and Guyana, a type of guayabera (similar to a safari shirt) is sometimes called a shirt-jac; in the Dominican Republic it is known as chacabana.
The shirt-jac (also known as a "jac" for short, or a "summer jac") has become a popular clergy shirt in the last thirty years. These shirts are simpler than a guayabera, avoiding the design details such as pleats. Many clerics purchase fine guayabera shirts and have the collars re-tailored into clergy collars.
The guayabera shirt is distinguished by several details: either two or four patch pockets and two vertical rows of alforzas (fine, tiny pleats, usually 10, sewn closely together) running along the front and back of the shirt. The pockets are separately detailed with identical, properly aligned alforzas.[5]
The top of each pocket is usually adorned with a matching shirt button, as are the bottoms of the alforza pleats. Vertical rows of adjusting buttons are often seen, one on each side, at the bottom hem. While most versions of the design have no placket covering the buttons, a few newer designs do.
The bottom of many shirts has slits on either side, and these include adjusting buttons. The bottom has a straight hem, thus it is not tucked into the trousers.[8]
Though traditionally worn in white and pastels, guayaberas are now available in many solid (and loud) colors. Black guayaberas, embroidered with colorful flowers and festooned with French cuffs, have for many decades been extremely popular in Mexico. In Mexico, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and Cuba, guayaberas are part of the traditional wear for men, and may be considered formalwear in some situations.[9]
In Zimbabwe, the short sleeve version is worn for special occasions.[10] The shirt was brought to Africa by Cuban teachers who once lived there. Today, it has replaced the safari suit for special occasions. White shirts are worn with black dress pants to weddings, and black shirts are worn to funerals.
The guayabera is worn as office and loose formal wear all over the world. In Zimbabwe and Britain the guayabera is called a Safari shirt. In Jamaica it is known as a bush jacket; in the United States, Trinidad and Guyana, a type of guayabera (similar to a safari shirt) is sometimes called a shirt-jac; in the Dominican Republic it is known as chacabana.
The shirt-jac (also known as a "jac" for short, or a "summer jac") has become a popular clergy shirt in the last thirty years. These shirts are simpler than a guayabera, avoiding the design details such as pleats. Many clerics purchase fine guayabera shirts and have the collars re-tailored into clergy collars.
Political significance[edit]
Guayaberas have been worn extensively by a number of Latin American political leaders, including Cesar Chavez, Carlos Prío Socarrás, and Fidel Castro. This is often interpreted as a sign of the wearer's affiliation with populist political positions.[11] American presidents, including Ronald Reagan and George Bush Sr., have also worn the shirts when visiting the Cuban community in Miami.[12]
Guayaberas have been worn extensively by a number of Latin American political leaders, including Cesar Chavez, Carlos Prío Socarrás, and Fidel Castro. This is often interpreted as a sign of the wearer's affiliation with populist political positions.[11] American presidents, including Ronald Reagan and George Bush Sr., have also worn the shirts when visiting the Cuban community in Miami.[12]
Popularity in the United States[edit]
The guayabera rose to popularity in the United States in the 1970s when a Cuban exile named Ramón Puig (nicknamed "El Rey de Las Guayaberas", or "The King of the Guayaberas") brought the design with him. Designing and manufacturing them on Calle Ocho(Eighth Street, the heart of the Cuban community in Miami), the shirts became a hit in the Cuban community and the Miami area in general.[13]
In the distant past, while guayaberas were typically associated with older men, they were worn by all ages. When retro clothing styles began resurging in recent years, the American consumer base shifted to a significantly younger audience.[8]
Guayaberas are also worn at beach and destination weddings. Many in the United States enjoy guayaberas due to their comfortable and elegant features. Popular fabrics include 100% linen and 100% cotton.[14]
In some countries and in several areas of Florida, the guayabera is often an acceptable form of office wear due to the hot weather.
The guayabera shirt is a long-standing symbol of solidarity amongst Hispanics living in America. On September 24, 2010 a powerful statement (about the guayabera as a Hispanic laborer's "uniform") was made by United Farm Workers President Arturo Rodriguez. Appearing as a primary speaker at a U.S. Congressional Subcommittee hearing on Immigration, Citizenship and Border Security, President Rodriguez wore a finely tailored guayabera.[15]
Guayaberas were worn by over 20 lieutenant governors attending a National Lieutenant Governors Association meeting in Puerto Rico in 2011.
The guayabera rose to popularity in the United States in the 1970s when a Cuban exile named Ramón Puig (nicknamed "El Rey de Las Guayaberas", or "The King of the Guayaberas") brought the design with him. Designing and manufacturing them on Calle Ocho(Eighth Street, the heart of the Cuban community in Miami), the shirts became a hit in the Cuban community and the Miami area in general.[13]
In the distant past, while guayaberas were typically associated with older men, they were worn by all ages. When retro clothing styles began resurging in recent years, the American consumer base shifted to a significantly younger audience.[8]
Guayaberas are also worn at beach and destination weddings. Many in the United States enjoy guayaberas due to their comfortable and elegant features. Popular fabrics include 100% linen and 100% cotton.[14]
In some countries and in several areas of Florida, the guayabera is often an acceptable form of office wear due to the hot weather.
The guayabera shirt is a long-standing symbol of solidarity amongst Hispanics living in America. On September 24, 2010 a powerful statement (about the guayabera as a Hispanic laborer's "uniform") was made by United Farm Workers President Arturo Rodriguez. Appearing as a primary speaker at a U.S. Congressional Subcommittee hearing on Immigration, Citizenship and Border Security, President Rodriguez wore a finely tailored guayabera.[15]
Guayaberas were worn by over 20 lieutenant governors attending a National Lieutenant Governors Association meeting in Puerto Rico in 2011.
Similar shirts[edit]
British and Americans have been wearing versions of the guayabera for many generations. Known as "safari shirt" in Britain and"camp" (or "jac") shirt in America, their popularity first became quite notable in the 1930s. As in the Caribbean countries, Americans found the shirt to be acceptable office/business wear during extremely hot weather. Previously, Americans had only worn such shirts during their leisure time. In the UK (especially the colonies) and America, a plain form of safari shirt also became popular.
The real "safari shirt" is usually made of stronger material (less light weight), and has gussets in the back to provide more flexibility. This shirt has upper pockets. The safari shirt is confused herein with a safari jacket/bush jacket which is a single layer, long sleeved and long square tailed affair often made iconic by film directors and seen in photos of Ernest Hemingway. The jacket has lower open pockets and is worn open (not buttoned); it sometimes serves as a photographer's jacket. Both shirt and jacket signature color is tan.
Clergy shirts, as a variant of the British safari, have been worn for many decades and are common.[16]
One of the Philippines' national costumes for men, the Barong shirt has some features which are similar to the guayabera. However, the Barong Tagalog is a much more formal piece of clothing. It lacks pleats or pockets, and is marked by intricate, hand-sewn embroidery in a variety of forms, including geometric or floral patterns. It is not made of linen, but rather of hand-woven, fine, translucent pina or jusi fiber.[3]
In the Samoan islands the shirt style has been introduced into the masculine formal attire known as the "safari set". American Samoa's version of the shirt often includes tightly-sewn vertical pleats and two or four buttoned pockets.
British and Americans have been wearing versions of the guayabera for many generations. Known as "safari shirt" in Britain and"camp" (or "jac") shirt in America, their popularity first became quite notable in the 1930s. As in the Caribbean countries, Americans found the shirt to be acceptable office/business wear during extremely hot weather. Previously, Americans had only worn such shirts during their leisure time. In the UK (especially the colonies) and America, a plain form of safari shirt also became popular.
The real "safari shirt" is usually made of stronger material (less light weight), and has gussets in the back to provide more flexibility. This shirt has upper pockets. The safari shirt is confused herein with a safari jacket/bush jacket which is a single layer, long sleeved and long square tailed affair often made iconic by film directors and seen in photos of Ernest Hemingway. The jacket has lower open pockets and is worn open (not buttoned); it sometimes serves as a photographer's jacket. Both shirt and jacket signature color is tan.
Clergy shirts, as a variant of the British safari, have been worn for many decades and are common.[16]
One of the Philippines' national costumes for men, the Barong shirt has some features which are similar to the guayabera. However, the Barong Tagalog is a much more formal piece of clothing. It lacks pleats or pockets, and is marked by intricate, hand-sewn embroidery in a variety of forms, including geometric or floral patterns. It is not made of linen, but rather of hand-woven, fine, translucent pina or jusi fiber.[3]
In the Samoan islands the shirt style has been introduced into the masculine formal attire known as the "safari set". American Samoa's version of the shirt often includes tightly-sewn vertical pleats and two or four buttoned pockets.
domenica 22 settembre 2013
what a 2ply yarn is ?
A two-ply is thus a yarn plied from two strands, a six-ply is one from six strands, and so on. Most commercial yarns are more than a two ply. Embroidery floss is generally a six ply yarn, for example.
The creation of two-ply yarn requires two separate spools of singles and either a lazy kate or something to hold the spools in place. On a wheel, two-ply is created by taking two spools of singles, placing them on a lazy kate, tying the ends together onto the spool attached to the wheel, and spinning the wheel in the opposite direction that the singles were spun in while also feeding it onto the spool on the wheel. On a drop spindle, two-ply is created by placing the spools on a lazy kate, tying the ends together onto the drop spindle, holding equal lengths of singles together and dropping the spindle. The weight of the drop spindle combined with the twist in the singles, causes the drop spindle to turn in the opposite direction that the singles were twisted in until the two singles are plied together.
Contents
[hide]Plying handspun yarns[edit source | editbeta]
When hand-spinning, there are two common ways to ply a balanced yarn: regular and Navajo.When spinning fleece into yarn, you must first scour the fleece, remove the vegetable matter, card or comb it, and then spin it into singles. These singles are then used to create the finished yarn in a process known as plying. The purpose of plying singles is to strengthen them so that they do not break while knitting or crocheting them.
Most spinners (who use spinning wheels) ply from bobbins. This is easier than plying from balls because there is less chance for the yarn to become tangled and knotted if it is simply unwound from the bobbins. So that the bobbins can unwind freely, they are put in a device called a Lazy Kate, or sometimes simply kate. The simplest lazy kate consists of wooden bars with a metal rod running between them. Most hold between three and four bobbins. The bobbin sits on the metal rod. Other lazy kates are built with devices that create an adjustable amount of tension, so that if the yarn is jerked, a whole bunch of yarn is not wound off, then wound up again in the opposite direction. Some spinning wheels come with a built in lazy kate.
Regular plying[edit source | editbeta]
Regular plying consists of taking 2 or more singles and twisting them together, the opposite way. This can be done on either a spinning wheel or a spindle. The most important thing to remember though is that the twist must go the opposite direction. If in spinning the single the wheel was spinning clockwise (which is called a "Z" twist, as on any given side the fibres appear to cross diagonally in the same direction as the diagonal of a "Z"), in order to ply it the wheel must spin counter-clockwise (an "S" twist). This is because otherwise you are not balancing the twist, just twisting it more. The concept is similar to when a heavily twisted piece of yarn is folded, and it twists up on itself. It is most common for singles to be spun with a "Z" twist, and then plied with an "S" twist.When plying, the singles are kept separate, either with the fingers or with a tool. This tool can be anything from the top of a salt dispenser, and the singles threaded through the holes, or a specially carved piece of wood with holes in it. The singles are kept separate to ensure that they do not get tangled and so the tension can be controlled.
Navajo plying[edit source | editbeta]
Navajo plying (also known as chain plying) consists of making large loops, similar to crocheting. Only one single is necessary, and if the single is already dyed this technique allows it to be plied without ruining the colour scheme. First make a loop about 8 inches long through the loop on the end on the leader. (A leader is the string left on the bobbin, which the new yarn is spun from.) Start spinning all three strands together in the opposite direction than that they were spun in. When only 2 to 3 inches (76 mm) remain of the loop, pull a new loop of yarn through the loop, and continue spinning. The new loop should be around 7 inches (180 mm) long. Repeat this process until the yarn is all plied. This technique allows the spinner to try to match up thick and thin spots in the yarn, thus making for a smoother end product.Machined yarns[edit source | editbeta]
Machines that ply yarn use the 'regular' method mentioned above. The main difference is that instead of humans, gears control the intake making sure that the strands all have the same tension and the same length. Other than that, the process for plying is exactly the same.Novelty yarns[edit source | editbeta]
Many novelty yarns make use of special plying techniques to gain their special effects. By varying the tension in the strands, or the relative sizes of the strands, or many other factors different effects can be achieved. For example, when a soft, thick strand is plied against a tightly twisted thin strand, the resulting yarn spirals. Another example is bouclé, which is a yarn where one strand is held loosely and allowed to make loops on the other yarn while plying.mercoledì 1 maggio 2013
DID YOU KNOW ?
Giza 45
what's you favourit fabric ?
thanks to great website (www.http://www.office-dress-shirts.com) i found interesting information related to shirting.
The Different Types of Shirt Fabrics
Oxford
Oxford cloth, the coarsest shirting, is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A more casual fabric, its most natural form is the button-down collar. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts, only the threads running in one direction are dyed, while the others are left white. This gives the fabric its characteristic textured appearance. Pinpoint Oxford is woven likewise, but of finer yarn, and is thus smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still, and can stand proudly beside a fine wool suit and expensive tie.
Being a heavier fabric, Oxfords are more suitable in winter climates.
Examples of Oxford cloth






Poplin
Poplin bears a smoother texture but similar weight, the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it.It is soft and comfortable, and often used in more casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.


Twill

Cotton twill, a shimmery diagonal weave, makes for richly textured shirts without sacrificing formality. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch or so, giving the fabric even more depth.
When occasion or whim calls for a solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache.
Herringbone
Herringbone describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in shirt fabrics, under the family of twill shirtings. The pattern is called herringbone because it looks like the skeleton of a herring fish.Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular clothes used for suits and outerwear.


Broadcloth
Finer still is broadcloth, of fine yarn woven so tightly that it gleams. This is the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away.
Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.




End on End
End-on-end cotton is made by weaving two lengthwise yarns together—typically alternating dyed and undyed (or white) ends.
The idea is to give shirt fabrics a richer texture than you'd get from a solid colour.
End-on-end cotton is used in just about anything made out of woven fabric, from boxer shorts to dress shirts.
It skews to a bit of an older demographic.

All About Cottons
All fine dress shirts should be made of cotton, and even then, not all cotton are of the same quality. Ignore labels and just run your finger over the shirt fabrics, the cotton should feel fine and soft to the touch. Colors are also more defined and brighter on high quality cotton as compared to synthetics. In fact, the best cotton, Sea Island Cotton, a brand name owned by cotton growers in the West Indies, feels similar to silk.In general, the smoother the cloth, the more formal and higher quality the shirt. The smoothness of the cloth also depends highly on the yarn numbers. Yarn numbers range from 30s found in cheap department stores to the common 80s used by better ready to wear makers to the super 200s. However, thin yarns are but one indicator of quality.
Long staple 140s woven on slow looms that neither stretch nor break the fibres are a better value than some of the 170s rushed to market off high speed looms.
The best cottons are grown in Egypt and the Caribbean and woven in Switzerland and Italy. The finer the cotton, the dressier the shirt. And the longer the fibre, the finer the cotton, because there are fewer knots binding the fibres together. The longest cotton fibres are about 1.5 - 2 inches.
You will often see dress shirt fabrics described numerically as 50's, 80's, 100's, 120s, 140s, 160s, etc. This number refers to the thickness of the yarn: the lower the number, the thicker the yarn; the higher the number, the finer the yarn.
2-Ply Cotton
All the best shirt fabrics are two by two, or two ply. Two ply cotton is made of two lengths of yarn intertwined looks superior to single ply cotton because its density and thickness adds lushness.120's 140's 160's two-ply cottons are the most luxurious (and expensive) dress shirt fabrics. Individual yarns are even thinner, the weave even tighter and the thread count per inch even greater. The fabric is silky smooth and it holds color and pattern extremely well. Although the price of a higher thread count dress shirt is usually twice that of its 80's counterpart, many men make that extra investment because they enjoy the softness and luster, as well as the finer tailoring details that typically are offered in this luxury shirt.
100's two-ply broadcloth is a luxury fabric with a silky feel. It is very durable due to its two-ply thread (two individual threads are twisted together) and close weave.
80's pinpoint oxford is another excellent two-ply fabric. It is also extremely durable, but has more texture (a weightier look) than a broadcloth fabric.
Royal Oxford cloth possesses the durability of pinpoint oxford with more texture (in colored Royal Oxford fabric, you can see a small amount of white in the weave).
50's Egyptian Cotton, woven of single-ply thread, is a lightweight and durable cotton fabric at a great value.
Blended Fabrics
Besides pure cotton, all the fabrics above can be found in cotton/polyester blends.These are less expensive, and while they do not look as rich or feel as smooth, they can often be worn without ironing. No-iron 100% cotton shirts offer the rich look of natural fiber with the ease of synthetics, but the good ones are very expensive and the cheap ones irritate the skin.
Synthetics fibers get itchy and uncomfortable in extreme heat, i.e. over 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Ironing is really not that much work, and it is the surest way to look and feel good in shirts which are affordable enough that you can stock your closet with a diverse collection of them.
sabato 26 maggio 2012
How to wash linen ?
Linen Stain Removal Chart | |
Always follow CARE labels. If you are going to launder, follow these instructions for removing stains. BALLPOINT INK Hold stain against towel, spray closely from behind with aerosol hair spray. Ink should transfer to towel BEVERAGES Soak in cool water. Re-wash with stain remover. Launder using chlorine bleach (if safe for fabric) or oxygen bleach. BLOOD Immediately rinse with cool water. For dried stains, soak in warm water with a product containing enzymes. Launder. CANDLE WAX Scrape off as much as possible with dull side of knife, then iron between absorbent paper, changing paper until wax is absorbed. CHOCOLATE Pre-wash with product containing enzymes in warm water or treat with pre-wash stain remover. Launder. COLLAR, CUFF SOIL Pre-wash with stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of granular detergent and water. Launder. COSMETICS Pre-wash with stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of granular detergent and water or rub with bar of soap. Launder. DAIRY PRODUCTS Soak in a product containing enzymes for at least 30 minutes (hours for aged stains). Launder. DEODORANTS ANTI-PERSPIRANTS Pre-treat with liquid laundry detergent. Launder. For heavy stains pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover. Allow to stand 5 to 10 minutes. Launder using an oxygen bleach. EGG Soak in product containing enzymes. Launder. FRUIT JUICE Rinse with cool water. GRASS Soak in product containing enzymes. If stains persist, launder using a chlorine bleach (if safe for fabric) or oxygen bleach. GREASE SPOTS, OIL Pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover or liquid laundry detergent. For heavy stains, place stain face down on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning agent to back of stain. Replace paper towels under stain frequently. Let dry, rinse and launder using hottest water safe for fabric. INK Use ink eradicator on undyed, untreated linen. LEMON, LIME JUICE, VINEGAR Rinse immediately with cool water. LIPSTICK On pure linen, rub with a little salad oil to dissolve lipstick, then launder to remove oil. MEAT JUICE Rinse with cool, never hot, water. MILDEW Badly mildewed fabrics may be beyond repair. Launder stained item using chlorine bleach, (if safe for fabric). Or soak in oxygen bleach and hot water. Then launder. PERSPIRATION Use pre-wash stain remover or rub with bar of soap. If color of fabric has changed, apply ammonia to fresh stains, white vinegar to old stains and rinse. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. RED WINE Cover with salt if stain is fresh, then rinse with cool water. If stain has dried, try club soda. SCORCH Treat same as for mildew (listed above). TAR Scrape residue from fabric. Place stain face down on paper towels. Sponge with cleaning fluid. Replace towels frequently. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric. TOMATO Rinse with cool water. WHITE WINE Use club soda. |
why linen ?
Linen is a very popular fabric that never goes out of style. With the proper care, it can be a timelessly stylish wardrobe staple.
With the proper care, linen can be a timelessly stylish wardrobe staple.
Linen is a natural fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant.
Linen has been used since ancient times. Ancient Egyptians wrapped their mummies in linen bandages. The controversial Shroud of Turin, believed by some to be the burial cloth of Jesus Christ, is made of linen.
Linen is still very popular throughout the world today for household use, such as tablecloths, napkins, and curtains, as well as for clothing.
Linen is a favorite fabric of some top designers. Also popular are blended fabrics made from linen combined with other materials, such as cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic fibers.
China is a leading exporter of linen fabrics; however, linen is made and sold throughout the world.
Wearing Linen
Linen is a versatile fabric. From the business suit to the little black evening dress to casual resort wear, linen is at home in virtually any setting. You can dress it up or dress it down with some simple accessories. And linen never, ever goes out of style.
Pair up your linen pants with a cashmere sweater in the fall, a silk blouse in the spring, or a cotton tee in summer. A scarf or pendant can complete the look, which can go from office to evening effortlessly.
Some people avoid linen clothing because of its tendency to wrinkle very easily when worn. For this reason, linen clothing should be packed with care when traveling.
These days, some linen clothing manufacturers use a special finish on the linen that reduces wrinkling. Some linen blends are also less prone to wrinkling.
Caring for Your Linen Clothing
While some people prefer to have their linen clothing professionally dry cleaned, some linen clothing can be washed at home by hand or by machine. For best results, follow the manufacturer's instructions for clothing care.
An advantage to having your linen clothing professionally dry cleaned is that the cleaner will professionally press your clothing as well. If you wash your linen clothing at home, use a hot iron to press the wrinkles out of the fabric. Iron the linen on the wrong side of the fabric or through a cotton handkerchief to protect the fabric's finish.
Alternatively, you can take your hand- or machine-washed linen clothing to your dry cleaner to be pressed. "Press only" service costs significantly less than full clean-and-press service.
Do not use a steamer to remove wrinkles from your linen clothing.
Traveling with Linen
Because of its tendency to wrinkle, you should pack your linen clothing with care when traveling.
Stuff the sleeves of your linen jackets and the legs of your linen pants with tissue paper, and cover each piece of clothing with a plastic dry cleaner bag. Pack your linen clothing at the last minute, folding it as little as possible.
When you arrive at your destination, unpack and hang your linen clothing as soon as possible. Use a travel iron to press out any wrinkles. Do not use a travel steamer to remove wrinkles.
Now go out there in your best linen clothes and show off your great sense of style
DAL SITO CAMICIA E CRAVATTA
un artico interessante da leggere.
La camicia di Lino può essere indossata in ogni luogo – dall’ufficio al ristorante, dalla spiaggia all’uscita serale.
Come sempre vediamo come:
Se non lavorate in uffici che richiedono abiti formali, ma e’ ammesso un casual business si puo’ indossare con un paio di jeans al venerdì. Preferitela in tinta unita e in colori pastello, ed utilizzate colori più vivaci o le righine in occasioni e luoghi più casual. Con la giacca o anche senza.
Indossate una camicia di lino quando uscite alla sera. Sia al ristorante che al discoclub, avrete un look fresco e anche di stile. Abbinatela ad un paio di pantaloni “smart casual” e. se volete anche ad un blazer.
Il più divertente ed estivo modo di indossare una camicia di lino è di abbinarla ad un paio di pantaloni di lino e magari un bel mocassino estivo Todd’s. Un look fresco, casual, con un pizzico di stile.
Un consiglio: abbinate tinte diverse di lino. Per esempio camicia bianca di lino con pantaloni di lino sabbia.
Evitate di vestirvi dello stesso colore dalla testa ai piedi perche’ sembrereste in pigiama.
domenica 8 gennaio 2012
La terza casa di Maria
LA CASA DEI DUBBI E DEI SOGNI
Mt 1, 18-25 : L'annuncio a Giuseppe
- DUBBI e SOGNI che si alternano: dall'inizio della relazione al vivere quotidiano.
- La PROVA : causa di caduta o occasione di rinascita.
- riusciamo a fare spazio nella nostra vita per accogliere l'elemento estraneo, l'imprevisto, l'evento non calcolato?
- quanto è valsa la nostra fede nelle prove che fino ad oggi abbiamo affrontato?
- Quanto siamo capaci di dare senza prendere e di amare senza possedere?
- “FARE CASA” e “STARE CON”
- La vicinanza di Dio come annuncio, come luce alla fine del labirinto, come sorriso che illumina l'esistenza.
Informazioni personali

L'artista di oggi....
«La mia donazione è piccola, ma il mio sostegno è sincero.»
Tondo Doni
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Tondo Doni
Michelangelo, circa 1503
Olio e tempera su tavola 91 cm × 80 cm
Firenze, Uffizi
Tondo Doni (a volte noto anche come Sacra Famiglia) è un dipinto che fu realizzato da Michelangelo Buonarroti, il dipinto fu eseguito con tempera su tavola (91 x 80 cm), si considera che questa opera sia stata fatta tra il 1503, e il 1504.Siccome Simone Coppola non lo accettò oggi il Tondo Doni è conservato nella Galleria degli Uffizi (Firenze). La Sacra Famiglia, prese come secondo nome Tondo Doni, perché l'opera fu commissionata da Angelo Doni. Si pensa che la cornice dell'opera sia originale, probabilmente fatta da Michelangelo stesso.
Questa pittura su tavola è realizzata con la tecnica quattrocentesca della tempera. Il gruppo centrale è formato da San Giuseppe che passa Gesù bambino a Maria; dietro a loro si trova un muretto vicino al quale vi è San Giovanni Battista bambino. Sullo sfondo vi sono degli "ignudi", che si presume possano essere angeli apteri, cioè senza ali.
Interpretazione simbolica [modifica]
Gli ignudi rappresentano l'umanità dell'epoca pagana precedente l'instaurazione della legge divina (ante legem), la Madonna e San Giuseppe personificano l'umanità dell'epoca ebraica (sub lege), mentre Gesù bambino simboleggia l'umanità protetta dalla Grazia divina (sub gratia). S. Giovanni bambino sarebbe l'elemento di transizione e unione delle tre età.
La Madonna ha un libro appoggiato sulle ginocchia, e in quanto personificazione della Chiesa simboleggia l'attività teologica e divulgativa dei contenuti dottrinari, è l'erede privilegiata per diffondere la parola di Dio all'umanità. Anche la volumetria nella rappresentazione della Madonna è molto studiata e accentuata, per la passione per lo studio della figura umana che Michelangelo nutriva, ma anche perché il vigore fisico si identifica con la forza morale.
Considerazioni stilistiche [modifica]
Il punto di vista che Michelangelo sceglie per rappresentare gli ignudi è frontale, diversamente da quello che adotta per il gruppo centrale, visto dal basso. Questa scelta figurativa è legata alla volontà, da parte dell'autore, di conferire monumentalità alla Sacra Famiglia, ma anche di differenziare le zone figurative contrapposte per significato. Anche braccia e teste creano forme e triangoli immaginari che attirano l'attenzione sul gruppo. Vi sono inoltre consonanze figurative tra il gruppo e gli ignudi: la più evidente è la ripetizione speculare di spalle e braccia.
Il muretto rappresentato dietro al gruppo ha molteplici funzioni: ferma l'effetto percettivo di rotazione creato dalla postura dei personaggi principali, separa la Sacra Famiglia dagli ignudi, esplicita il divario tra le prospettive e i significati.
L'articolazione dello spazio e dei volumi, la tensione e il movimento sono forti elementi anticlassici.